The Sea of Cortez
The Sea Of Cortez is a time capsule of sorts, a nature pageant putting on a display of the earths finest natural resources through time, the ages at a glance, the magic is still here! There’s this juxtaposition of the harshness of the Sonoran desert, the baron remoteness of the Baja, diving steeply into the sea from the heights of the ancient mountain-ranges, where a cornucopia of life swirls just beneath the surface. It’s a land that “progress” forgot, thank god, where the ancients still flourish – the Humpbacks and Grays, the Great Whites and all the Rays, the Whale Shark, and the shark of the whales – the Orcas of course! Super pods of dolphin, phosphorescent exploding balls of light in the darkness, the large schools of Dorado taking up the chase in the night.
Fewer have put better words to describe this place than John Steinbeck when he penned,
“Each of them in his own tempo and with his own voice discovered and reaffirmed with astonishment the knowledge that all things are one thing and that one thing is all things—plankton, a shimmering phosphorescence on the sea and the spinning planets and an expanding universe, all bound together by the elastic string of time. It is advisable to look from the tide pool to the stars and then back to the tide pool again.”
~ From The Sea of Cortez
The name “Sea of Cortes” was given to the body of water to honor the Spanish conquistador, Hernan Cortez, who claimed Mexico for Spain. While some call it the Gulf of California, locals prefer its original name and distinct spelling. Although the Spanish may have toppled the Aztec rulers from the great ancient cities found in this land, the land has never surrendered their spirits, and the magic in these places is palpable! The human history, the biodiversity of the creatures that have lived here for millennia…it’s not an easy task to give enough weight and do justice with words alone to describe it…you kinda’ just have to experience it for yourself! And once you have, you’ll discover you just need more time here!
And of all the ways to experience a snapshot in time of a place so seemingly timeless and virtually untouched, there’s no better connection to the land and the sea than exploring by sail. Retracing the courses made by those fateful Conquistadores, and inconceivably seeing a place on earth nearly as it would have been 1000’s of years ago.
A quick fun fact for you: The Gulf of California is a little more than 3,000 meters at its deepest, 750 miles long, and has an average width of 95 miles across.
We start our journey back through time in the quaint smaller Sonoran town of San Carlos Nuevo Guaymas, made famous from the 1970’s Hollywood movie, Catch 22, and later the 1998 The Mask Of Zorro, jumpstarting the tourism popularity of the town with Hollywood stars and snowbirds alike. Today, San Carlos is most well known as a sport fishing destination, scuba diving hot-spot, and the Gateway to the Sea of Cortez for sailors – being only a 5 hour drive from Nogales Arizona, in the “Free Zone” for drivers, it’s a safe and fast drive on a concrete 4-lane highway, with bypasses for both the Mexican sister-city of Nogales, and around the state’s capital city of Hermosillo. Hermosillo also hosts the HMO International Airport, with direct flights from Phoenix and connections from major airports everywhere else. Hell, you can even take a Tufesa bus from downtown LA; or for the backpackers at heart, walk across from San Diego into Tijuana, and take a domestic flight into Hermosillo to save some $$’s! I’ll have a driver waiting for you at the airport, one more hour and you’re in paradise!
With so many convenient, and relatively expeditious ways to get to San Carlos, and THE PERFECT climate for 8mo’s of the year, you will quickly realize why we know it as the Gateway to the Sea. There are truly so many special experiences we can have right here in our local waters, and we do have shorter sailing trips that focus on the local surroundings; however, most folks who have the itch for sailing really want to put on some miles and experience something truly once-in-a-lifetime (and probably many more times!). So, understanding that compulsion better than anyone, we also feel the pull back into the sea and to distant shores and secluded anchorages. And here’s where the Sea of Cortez really separates from the crowd…er, I mean literally, the crowds; anywhere else in the world that offers such incredible vistas and wildlife, and many places that frankly pale to compare, you will be packed into anchorages like sardines! Not here! We will be one of a few boats, if not the only boat. We’ll be a few voices and a fire on the beach, and nothing but the stars for neighbors. Maybe don’t tell anyone, but a few close friends, and then call me! Let’s GO!
Our two most popular trips have been from San Carlos to Bahia Concepcion, on the Baja (a round-trip), and San Carlos to Loreto (and a reverse option originating in Loreto and concluding in San Carlos) both one-way trips. These give sailors and adventurers several options for points to fly into/out of the country, as well as variety of great smaller cities to spend some time in on either side of the sailing adventure.
Fun fact: The Sea of Cortez is home to 244 islands, a result of the San Andreas Fault and tectonic plates that run down the center of the sea.
So here’s what you can expect from a Sailing Adventure with us in an ecological wonderland – click here for full descriptions of trip itineraries.
San Carlos to Bahia Concepcion – this trip encompasses two crossings of the Sea of Cortez, there and back, which gives crew real-world offshore miles building experience. 90 miles across, round-trip, you will log 200nm’s (click here to find out how to set up your digital log-book and record your sailing tracks).
We take our first anchorage (not including first night in San Carlos) at Punta Chivato, a remote community on the Baja. If we’ve timed this right, we will arrive just before, or perhaps just after, sundown – after crossing the Sea of Cortez (about 14 hours of sailing)! A wonderful first milestone. The following day is no slouch either, with at least another minimum of 4 hours to make our next anchorage in the world-class play-land (as I like to call it) that is Bahia Concepcion.
Where to begin, when describing this place…well, a picture is worth at least a 1000 of my paltry words. But here’s a crack at it: Imagine the coolest “hurricane” hole you can envision, a natural harbor protected by a 25 mile peninsula, and dotted with bays and islands tucked in to the north end of the bahia. You’ll know when you see the pods of dolphin hanging out here, that you arrived at the coolest party in town! White sand beaches and turquoise water, world-class snorkeling, some fun hikes to see proto-american petroglyphs in the rocks, and did I mention the hot-springs?!
Now, I want to set the expectations realistically, this isn’t the remotest of locations, since Hwy 1 does run right along the perimeter of several of these popular bays; however, the welcome compromise is the lively atmosphere at a few particular locales, with a couple notable restaurants/coffee shops, where you can kick up under a palapa and enjoy a hot meal and a cold drink brought right to you with a smile! But what’s really great about Bahia Concepcion is, when you’ve had enough of your neighbors, you’re not more than a few miles from a more secluded cove, and when the weather is particularly lovely, I like to take anchorage off one of the many islets, and this assures us of our own private little oasis. Escape Velocity only drafts 4.5’ with the swing-keel up, so we’re afforded the ability to get into many tight spaces that others just cannot. Okay, I’ve gotta go jump in the kayak and go check out a couple hot-springs, so I’ll be right back!
Fun fact: Each year, a variety of migratory species visit the Sea of Cortez, including the California Gray Whale, the Leatherback Sea Turtle, and the Blue Whale, the largest mammal on the planet.
So, as if this hasn’t already all been great enough, if you’ve signed up for the adventure to Loreto, Bahia Conception is just the appetizer! We now get to enjoy sailing another 80nm’s to Loreto, and have the absolute privilege to experience the islands of Coronados and Carmen, and some truly unique anchorages along the way. These places, however, truly are off the beaten track…no highways anywhere nearby! The first of which is Punta Pulpito, which is an 8hr day of sailing to make good the 36nm from the entrance of Bahia Concepcion and south to this point. Pulpito is another well known dive spot and completely secluded bay with bouldery beaches. There is an opportunity, with good timing, to enjoy some free-diving activities and see some underwater majesty; however, this spot is mostly a place to rest up after a long day of sailing, have an amazing meal, and prepare for the next leg.
From here, we sail onward to San Juanico! This is another favorite of cruisers, another “play-land” with too much to do and see in one visit alone. This is only a few hours from Pulpito, which gives us a mid-day arrival, with all afternoon to enjoy water activities, or take one of several breathtaking hikes…hopefully, because of the view (a little cardio isn’t bad either;).
Fun fact: The body of water was added to the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites in 2005 because of the important oceanographic processes that occur in the area and because of the megadiverse ecosystem that inhabits the sea.
From San Juanico, we embark on a 4hr sail to Isla Coronado! Marked by her distinctive volcanic cone, rising to a height of 928 feet, the island is probably best known for the white sand beaches, turquoise waters, and hiking on offer. Without a doubt, we’ll be eating fresh catch fish by now! I happen to know an avid spear-fisherman! Being part of the national park program, park passes and fishing licenses are included for these trips, so you too can enjoy some fishing if you fancy.
We like to time the trip so that the crew can either opt to enjoy a little leisure at this point, spending a full day and second night at anchor in the embrace of Isla Coronado, or if folks are feeling adventurous and keen to take in more sights and add on more miles, we can take another short hop over to Isla Carmen. There are several options for taking anchorage, depending on prevailing wind conditions, and again no shortage of incredible underwater spectacles to take in. By now, you’ll be starting to appreciate just how big and how wonderful the Sea of Cortez is; and, although we’ve seen and done many things at this point in the journey, the magnitude of just how much more is out there to be explored starts tugging at you…you’re already thinking of when you’ll be returning!
Fun fact: The Gulf of California is home to 900 species of fish, 695 vascular plant species, 39% of the marine mammals in the world, and 1/3 of the planet’s marine cetacean species, making it the biologically richest body of water on Earth.
The last leg of this trip is taking anchorage off the historic city of Loreto, debriefing the crew and talking the highlights of the trip, and disembarking ashore. This is where the Captain of Escape Velocity sadly says his goodbyes, however, you’re just beginning your next adventure! Go on to enjoy all that Loreto has to offer, a town steeped in history, formerly serving as the capital of the Californias until 1777. This rich history, including indigenous cultures inhabiting the area for 12,000 years, offers us a glimpse of the classical architecture, Catholic missions, cobblestone streets, fantastic cuisine, and all that a popular tourism destination has on offer.
I hope I’ve done some small justice to a huge experience that belies what words alone can convey. And I hope this article has sparked your adventure spirit, and you will at some point get to experience this incredible region at some time in your travels. Mexico is our home for good reason: incredibly generous and friendly people, a welcoming and accepting nature to foreigners looking for a truly cultural experience, a culture and history unlike any other in the world, made so accessible. It is our honor and privilege to share this place and these people with you. I hope you will come join us! Que te vaya bien!
All original photos by Cpt. Josh
